COMPENDIUM
-Amstaff from Kennel Hall Of Heroes
-Amstaff från kennel Hall Of Heroes
In this compendium we have gathered information about what it is like to own and raise an amstaff puppy and what to expect. We as breeders carefully select our puppy buyers for each puppy based on our experience of what that particular puppy needs to live a good and healthy life as a companion dog.
Amstaffen is an all-round dog with many nice qualities, something we want to take advantage of in our breeding work. First and foremost, our puppies should be and become fantastic companion dogs, but we strive for them to also have a good job satisfaction and be able to perform the forms of training that their owners want and thus they should be adaptable and cope with most environments. For this to work, they must be mentally strong and our breeding animals must have the best psyche available.
Of course, they must also be of a fully approved amstaff type according to RAS.
In order for the amstaff puppies to be able to develop in the best way, they need a lot of closeness and good guidance in their upbringing so that they develop security and confidence in their own abilities. This requires a lot of commitment and social training, but above all time and patience. So think through your puppy purchase carefully. Puppies are a full-time job.
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Think about these questions before you get a dog:
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Do you have enough time for the dog? - A puppy requires activation and socialization a little, but often several times a day.
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How does everyday life work, family and activities? - An adult dog should be supervised after 6 hours, while a puppy can only be left alone at home for short periods, about 5-10 minutes which is then built up as the puppy gets older and is able to be alone at home.
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Are you ready to get involved with the dog as long as it is alive, 10-15 years? - To ensure that the dog has food and water, and to work with both physically and with the brain.
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Is anyone in your family or among your relatives allergic? - Many people do not know that they are allergic until the puppy has already returned home. If you have not had a dog before, do an allergy test on you and the family that will be staying at home. Sad to have to sell / return his long-awaited puppy again.
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Can your finances cover the costs associated with dog ownership, even in unexpected situations? - Food, equipment, insurance, veterinary visits, vaccinations, deworming, dog courses, etc. cost a lot, so work out what your puppy would cost in maintenance.
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Can you have a dog where you live? - Not all rental apartments allow pets. Check out what is in your contract. Some countries have banned the ownership and holding of amstaff, including Denmark and Norway, while Spain has strict restrictions on how they are to be held. If you are considering moving abroad, you should therefore find out what rules apply to the breed in that country before you buy a dog.
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Are you prepared to go out with the dog several times a day? - A puppy should go out about every other hour (10-15 min / walk) to be room clean, while an adult dog needs about an hour of activation and rest every day divided into 3-4 times to feel good.
ABOUT YOUR PUPPY
BEFORE THE PUPPY COMES HOME
The work with the puppy actually starts even before it comes to your home. There is a lot that needs to be planned and prepared. The whole family must be involved in planning which routines and rules should apply to the puppy, who takes which responsibilities. We as breeders will under no circumstances sell or sign contracts with minors, so the main responsibility for the puppy's well-being is the adults / adults in the household. Start discussing through how you want the dog to be as an adult. Ex: Should it be allowed to jump on people who visit it? If not, start by greeting the puppy by squatting and letting it come to you. The same goes for the other behaviors and rules. Then we have insurance, training, etc. that are added. If the puppy is to have the opportunity to become a wonderful companion and family dog that the whole family must be involved and have their say and plan. We are there for questions and good advice to all our puppy buyers.
TRAVEL AND HOME
Traveling can be both scary and fun, riding a car, bus or train is an important exercise for your puppy and will make traveling with it as an adult much easier! If the puppy becomes ill, only go shorter distances and take out the puppy before it starts to drool or vomit. Let the puppy experience something fun when you have reached your destination. A picnic area, park or a school trip usually makes the puppy think trips are pleasant experiences.
When it comes to social, the puppy needs to take in the people who should be in its vicinity first and foremost in peace and quiet. The puppies usually love people and other dogs, but they can easily become overstimulated if there are too many at once. So take it easy to let the whole neighborhood visit and make sure that the puppy can get away in peace and sleep if it needs to. One step at a time, it goes great! Your families and others who will be around the puppy must of course be allowed to come. But steer so that not everyone pats the puppy at the same time and make sure that the puppy gets breaks.
Finally, we want to point out that the puppy does need mental stimulation and physical activity. BUT it must not be exaggerated either. Passivity and rest are at least as important! When the puppy has moved in, no extra stimulation is needed in a couple of days. Then the new house, you and your other animals (if you have one) will be great. You notice when the puppy is at home and starts to get bored;) That's when the walls start to chew on! But in the beginning it is full of everything new!
INNAN VALPEN KOMMER HEM
Arbetet med valpen börjar faktiskt redan innan den kommer hem till er. Det är mycket som måste planeras och förberedas. Hela familjen måste vara med och planera vilka rutiner och regler som ska gälla för valpen, vem som tar vilka ansvarsuppgifter. Vi som uppfödare kommer inte under några omständigheter att sälja eller skriva kontrakt med minderåriga, så huvudansvaret för valpens välmående har de vuxna i hushållet. Börja att diskutera igenom hur ni vill att hunden ska vara som vuxen. Ex: Ska den få hoppa på folk som hälsar på den? Om inte så börja med att hälsa på valpen genom att sätta er på huk och låta den komma till er. Samma sak gäller för de andra beteendena och reglerna. Börja även att diskutera vilka kommandon ni ska använda som sitt, ligg och inkallning. Sedan har vi försäkringar, träningar m.m som tillkommer. Börja redan nu att välja ut var ni ska träna och gå kurser och åk och besök dessa och ställ frågor om ni inte redan har erfarenhet av dessa. Om valpen ska ha möjlighet att bli en härlig sällskaps- och familjehund som måste hela familjen få vara med och säga sitt och planera. Vi finns här för frågor och goda råd till alla våra valpköpare.
RESA OCH HEMKOMST
Att resa kan vara både skrämmande och roligt, att åka bil, buss eller tåg är en viktig träning för din valp och kommer göra resandet med den som vuxen mycket lättare! Om valpen blir åksjuk så åk bara kortare sträckor och ta ut valpen innan den börjar dregla eller kräkas. Låt valpen uppleva något roligt när ni nått er destination. Park eller en skogsutflykt brukar få valpen att tycka resor är trevliga upplevelser. Undvik hundrastgårdar då här händer mycket olyckor och här finns stor risk för att smittas av både parasiter och sjukdomar.
När det gäller socialt så behöver valpen få ta in de personer som ska vara i dess närhet först och främst i lugn och ro. Valparna älskar oftast folk och andra hundar, men de kan lätt bli överstimulerade om det kommer för många på en gång. Så ta det lite lugnt med att låta hela grannskapet få hälsa på och se till att valpen får komma undan och sova om den behöver. Ett steg i taget så går det kanonbra! Era familjer och andra som kommer att vara runt valpen måste givetvis få komma. Men styr upp så att inte alla klappar valpen samtidigt och se till att valpen får pauser.
Sist här vill vi påpeka att valpen visserligen behöver mental stimulans och fysisk aktivitet. MEN det får inte gå till överdrift heller. Passivitet och vila är minst lika viktigt att träna! När valpen flyttat in behövs ingen extra stimulans på ett par dagar. Då räcker det ypperligt med det nya huset, er och era andra djur (om ni har). Ni märker när valpen är hemmatrygg och börjar få tråkigt ;) Det är då väggarna börjar tuggas på! Men i början har den fullt upp med allt det nya!
PLAYTIME
The puppies think that most things are fun. Balls, tug of war with just about anything you can find. Your body is great fun! The hand under the blanket or rug is exciting!
The puppy needs a lot of mental stimulation, it is difficult to get them really tired of just physical activity. They need to get things figured out. Here are some simple and fun tips.
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When they are small, empty toilet rolls as they are, rags, old socks (which can be filled with newspaper or other "rattles") are great fun toys! The toilet rolls can then be increased in difficulty by placing a candy and pushing the ends of the roller so that it is closed, then the puppy has to figure out how to access the candy. When the puppy grows, some form of tape can make it difficult, but then be sure to monitor so that the puppy does not eat the tape!
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Rubber toys should be of the toughest quality. Amstaffen has strong jaw muscles and rarely gives in before it has demolished the toy.
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Candy under a blanket or cushion is good for the little puppy, the more it grows the harder it is for the candy to be hidden.
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Kurra-Hiding is a good game that can be really difficult for the puppy in the beginning, so hide easily. The bigger the puppy becomes, the harder you can hide.
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There are lots of "brain-gym" games on the market to buy. If you want one, avoid those that are made of plastic, they go into a thousand pieces pretty quickly after the amstaff got hold of it! And no matter how fun they seem, the amstaffs solve the simpler games far too quickly and then basically lose interest. It's better with homemade things in the long run.
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Small simple scent tracks can be laid early on the lawn, for example if you intend to have the puppy as a track. Lots of scent, short track and good reward. We do not recommend that you put small pieces of the candy as it requires such small amounts for it to be a whole meal for the puppy which it then has to skip and it gets a little crazy.
WALKING
One thing that is important to remember is that an amstaff puppy, if it gets, walks until it falls. This can have serious consequences as the puppy gets older. As an owner, you have to use a little common sense in how far you can go with a small puppy.
At home in the house or in the yard, it can go away when it gets tired, go to bed somewhere. But on a walk, the walk is too interesting and all fatigue is forgotten. We recommend a harness or regular collar for the puppy and a Flexi leash to safely train summoning and a regular leash for the puppy to get a feeling of being stuck.
But we want you to let the puppy be loose as often as you can and have the opportunity. Recall can be started training immediately (of course we train on this before the puppy also moves). Here too, the word "hit" may not mean much in the beginning, but say it when the puppy is still on its way to you and praise lots when it arrives. If you want to use a whistle or click, it is also good to have it from the beginning. It is also good to use these at meal times so that the puppy understands that the sound means something good - Now it's food .
SOCIALIZATION
One should be aware that it is a breed that feeds part of its owner. It requires a firm owner. As a person, you should be confident and determined in your actions, consistent and fair in your upbringing. Like all dogs, the breed develops after socialization, training and upbringing. How amstaff works with other dogs and animals is the same as with all other breeds; Individually. What is typical of the amstaff is that it can have a rather rigid body language, which so many other dogs of this breed type have. It can often be misinterpreted by the other dogs and that they also often skip the important greeting phrase and go straight to play, a rather harsh one. The breed has small signals that happen quickly, which means that there can be a tumult among the dogs. Many amstaffs have a lot of hunting in them and especially on smaller, fast animals. As the breed is very playful and can see a toy in most things. This means that it may take a lot of patience and time to get them to accept and work with the family's rabbit or cat.
By allowing your puppy to follow and experience as much as possible from the beginning and meet other stable adult dogs and animals in a safe and secure way, you prevent your dog from having problems with these situations in the future. Should your puppy be scared, de-dramatize by approaching the object the puppy is afraid of and handle it in a relaxed way, without making any big deal of the thing in front of the puppy.
Good socialization and good experiences from the puppy stage are important. Think about what your / your life together should look like in 4 years. What should you experience together, living apartment-house, what everyday situations your dog must be able to handle - friends' dogs, children, other animals (large and small) trips, etc. This is something that the puppy already needs to have good experience of. Puppy and young dog courses are something we strongly recommend that you start with when the puppy has received his 12-week vaccine.
VALPTÄNDER
När valpen föds är den tandlös, vilket är skönt för den diande tiken som slipper de sylvassa valptänderna.
Vid ca 3 veckors ålder tittar den första tanden fram och det brukar sammanfalla med att tikens mjölkproduktion börjar avta. Under ett par veckors tid kommer nu totalt 28 mjölktänder att växa ut, 14 stycken i överkäken och 14 stycken i underkäken.
Alla som har träffat en valp vet att deras mjölktänder är sylvassa, det gör riktigt ont att bli biten av dem. Men det finns en biologisk orsak till detta – hundar i det vilda stöter upp halvsmält föda till sina valpar. Denna föda innehåller ofta segt kött, muskelhinnor och hud och valparnas sylvassa tänder bearbetar detta till smala remsor som är lättare för kroppen att tillgodogöra sig.
När valpen är ca 4 månader börjar bytet mellan mjölktänder och permanenta tänder. Den permanenta tanden växer utåt och pressar bort mjölktanden samtidigt som kroppen absorberar mjölktandens rot. De första tänderna som ramlar ut är oftast de längst fram i överkäken. Underkäkens tänder brukar komma straxt efter. Det är även vid denna ålder som öronen börjar leva sitt eget liv. Många väljer då att tejpa dem med kirurgisk tejp för att få bra form på öronen som vuxen.
När hunden är sex månader brukar de permanenta tänderna ha vuxit ut. De är 42 stycken till antalet. Tänderna ska fylla ut tandbågen och inga trångställningar ska finnas. Hos vissa hundar, ramlar inte mjölktanden bort utan den permanenta tanden växer istället upp bredvid. Man kan då försiktigt börja vika på den för att lossa den, men fungerar det inte så bör man låta en veterinär ta bort mjölktanden för att de permanenta tänderna inte skadas.
BITANDE
För många valpägare är det ett problem att valpen biter dem i händerna och till och med attackerar fötter och ben när den är på det humöret. Er valp är varken aggressiv eller tokig, utan bara valp. Valpen upptäcker och känner på det mesta genom att tugga och bita. Den lär känna sin omgivning på så sätt. Många gånger så växer beteendet bort, men det är inte säkert och då står man där med en vuxen hund som bits vilket naturligtvis inte är acceptabelt.
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Avled
Börja med att försöka avleda valpen när den vill bita i era händer eller fötter. Se till att ni har några lättillgängliga leksaker och ge valpen. Men lek inte med leksaken utan ge valpen leksaken och gå därifrån. Börjar ni leka med valpen i denna situation kan ni få en hund som börjar med att bita i era händerna för att få igång en lek vilket förstås inte är önskvärt.
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Använd rösten
Att ge ifrån er ett gällt ljud som "AJ", när valpen biter och genast gå därifrån brukar fungerar för det flesta. Att säga NEJ till sin hund är idag om tvistat i hundvärlden. Vi säger NEJ och visar sedan vad vi vill att den SKA göra. Det vi försöker att inte göra är att använda hundens namn i en negativ mening eftersom vi vill att hunden ska uppfatta sitt namn som något positivt.
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Lite att tänka på
Det kliar i munnen vid tandömsning. När valpen är mellan fyra och sex månader tappar den sina valptänder. När de nya tänderna växer ut kan det klia lite vilket gör att valpen då vill tugga och bita på det mesta. Ge då valpen något hårt att tugga på ett tuggben eller en morot avleder problemet och valpen får utlopp för att det kliar i munnen.
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Saker att bita i
Vi har alltid massor av saker att bita i framme till våra valpar så som tuggben, mjukdjur (utan plastögon), läder, trasor, filtar, bollar, ja det man kan komma på. Försök i den mån det går att ha saker tillgängliga för valpen som den får bita i. Tar den någon av era saker så "byta" till er dem med hjälp av något annat som den får ha istället och använd ett kommando som "byta" till exempel. Det brukar gå rätt fort att lära dem.
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FOOD AND FEED
At the kennel, the puppy has eaten Doggy's puppy food soaked varied with a meal of homemade food that contains eggs, meat, vegetables, vitamins and minerals. We have noticed that when the puppy has access to different food and raw meat, fresh food, etc., both the puppy and the adult dog get a more stable stomach that does not get bad so easily. They tolerate most of the dead voles, snails and other things that it stuffs into itself.
As long as the puppy is small, it should eat its fill in general. Some puppies may need more food, some less and it is important to follow how the puppy is feeling and not just according to the producers' amount of food. Adjust the amount of food so that your dog is not too thick or too small. A good trick is that the ribs should be felt, but not visible.
Basic recipe for homemade dog food
For 10 kg dog / day
1-2 dl meat / poultry / fish / eggs
2-4 dl vegetables and rice / food grains
1 tbsp Standard Cook (available at the pet store) *
1 tbsp Fat / oil
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Make a larger batch that lasts for about 1 week or longer (freeze). The food otherwise stays good for about 1 week in the fridge.
Boil meat / minced meat / poultry / fish and let cool in its spade. If there are bones with the meat, it can be boiled as there are lots of nutrients that are released from the bones during cooking, but then throw away the cooked bones that must not be given to dogs. Save the nutritious shovel. Finely chop the meat. Eggs are given here boiled and peeled. Feel free to vary the meat variant between cooks. One week it will be e.g. chicken and the second week it will be minced meat or salmon, perhaps mixed with eggs. Choose what is at extra price. Store in a jar in the refrigerator.
Boil the vegetables that can be from the freezer counter, choose something / some of e.g. Summer vegetables, green beans, wax beans, peas and carrots. Carrots are generally kind to the stomach. Feel free to cook in the meat spatula. Mix with a hand mixer.
Boil rice or food grains well as described on the package. Choose what works best for your dog.
Mix equal parts rice / food grains with the vegetable mix. Store in a jar in the refrigerator.
When serving, Pour Standard Cook and fat on the food. Fats can be rapeseed oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, fish oil, unsalted butter, lard, etc.).
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* As an alternative to Standard Cooking, you can take:
½ teaspoon Hundapotekets Lime + 1 teaspoon Haelthy Paws Herbolistic (these contain only natural vitamins and minerals). Follow the instructions on the package carefully.
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NOTE! The dog must always have access to clean and fresh water. When changing feed, make a slow transition for 1-2 weeks and mix the old feed with the new one. Give more and more of the new feed and less and less of the old.
Age / Meal
Breakfast
Lunch
Dinner
Supper
Kl. 6.00
Soak 108g dry food (2 parts water / 1 part dry food)
Kl. 11.00
0.5 d l meat / poultry / fish / eggs, 1 dl vegetables and rice, ¼ tbsp Standard Cook *, 0.25 tbsp cooking oil.
Kl. 16.00
Soak 108g dry food (2 parts water / 1 part dry food)
Kl. 20.00
Soak 108g dry food (2 parts water / 1 part dry food)
2-4 months
About 10 kg
4-6 months
About 15 kg
Kl. 6.00
Soak 122g dry food (1 part water / 1 part dry food)
Kl. 12.00
1 dl meat / poultry / fish / eggs, 2 dl vegetables and rice, 0.5 tbsp Standard Cook *, 0.5 tbsp cooking oil.
Kl. 18.00
Soak 122g dry food (1 part water / 1 part dry food)
6-9 months
About 18 kg
Kl. 6.00
167g dry food
Kl. 12.00
1 , 5 dl meat / poultry / fish / eggs, 3 dl vegetables and rice, 0.75 tbsp Standard Cook *, 0.75 tbsp cooking oil.
Kl. 18.00
167g dry food
9-12 months
About 20 kg
Kl. 6.00
255g dry food
Kl. 18.00
2 dl meat / poultry / fish / eggs, 4 dl vegetables and rice, 1 tbsp Standard Cook *, 1 tbsp cooking oil.
About 1 year
About 22 kg
Kl. 6.00
255g dry food
(time to switch to adult food)
Kl. 18.00
2 dl meat / poultry / fish / eggs, 4 dl vegetables and rice, 1 tbsp Standard Cook *, 1 tbsp cooking oil.
Dangerous food for the dog
There are a lot of foods that are directly harmful and sometimes even fatal to a dog. Among the most dangerous is chocolate, the higher the cocoa content the more dangerous. Avocado, raw broccoli, nuts, grapes, spices, corn on the cob, raisins, unfermented dough, mold cheese, fluoride, xylitol or onions in any form should not be given to your dog either. Avoid giving the dog bird, fish and pork bones as these can chip and damage the stomach and intestinal tract.
VÅRD OCH SKÖTSEL
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TÄNDER OCH MUN
Vi rekommenderar att träna valpen redan från börja att borsta tänderna. Börja med att borsta med vatten i några sekunder. Belöna där efter med något gott. Detta kommer inte bara att hålla tandsten borta utan också att underlätta vid hälsokontroller av munnen och om valpen har tagit något som den absolut inte ska ha. Om valpen och den vuxna hunden har tillgång till tuggben så är detta också bra för både tänder och mun.
KLOKLIPPNING
Valparna är vana med kloklippning, men små valpar tycker sällan det är roligt att sitta still, så att klippa klorna när valpen är trött underlättar betydligt! Klipp hellre lite och ofta än mycket och sällan! Att fila klorna kan var ett knep att vänja valpen med att du hanterar klorna och att den sitter still en liten stund. Belöna med en godis efter att du är klar.
ÖRON
Öronen kan behöva ses över ibland, men rengör inte öron som ser fina ut, då kan du skapa problem istället för att förebygga dem. Om öronen luktar eller är smutsiga så ring och rådfråga veterinär istället. Använd aldrig örontops.
AVMASKNING
Valparna är avmaskade vid 3 veckor och 6 veckor och vi rekommenderar att ni gör det igen vid 9 veckors ålder. Avmaskar gör man för att masksporer kan gå från tiken via mjölken till valpen. Det tar ca 21 dagar för sporen att bli en färdig mask och man bör därför avmaska strax innan den tiden gått.
VACCINATION
Grundvaccinering mot parvo, valpsjuka och hepatit ges vid 8 veckors ålder innan valpen lämnar oss. Andra vaccinationen ges vid 12 veckors ålder. Revaccination vid 1 års ålder. Därefter vaccination mot parvo, valpsjuka och hepatit vart 3:e år och vaccination mot kennelhosta årligen. Vaccination mot leptospiros rekommenderas till hundar som ska åka utomlands. En vaccinering var 6-12 månad vid regelbundet resande. Revaccinering bör helst göras strax före resan.
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RUMSRENHET
Gott om tålamod, beröm när det sker på rätt ställe och ignorera när det blir fel. Hinner du så plocka upp valpen när den ställer sig för att kissa och bär ut den. Oftast så avbryter den kissandet och fortsätter när ni kommer ut
Vi har tränat valparna på att gå ut och göra ifrån sig efter mat och när de vaknar. Men det är bråttom! De har inte många sekunder på sig innan dem behöver ut.
Nattetid händer oftast både kiss- och bajsolyckor inne. Försök att ta ut valpen så sent som möjligt för att kissa och bajsa så släpper nog nattolyckorna snart också.
Just efter flytten så kan allt vara lite annorlunda, det är så mycket nytt och spännande så att hitta ytterdörren blir inte det viktigaste så då får ni bära ut valpen efter varje måltid och tupplur.
Valpar är oftast väldigt intresserade av de större hundarna när de kissar och bajsar, så ett tips är också att låta den vuxna hunden vara med, om ni har en och om den vuxna hunden tolererar en liten valp som försöker göra likadant i den situationen såklart.
THE PUPPY GROWS UP
An amstaffen is not fully grown until he is 3 years old. It is important to know even if it becomes sexually mature much earlier. It is therefore only at the age of 3 that you can see the results of education and training. A large part of the amstaff's upbringing is spent working with the brain and socialization as well as environmental training.
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The ghost age
Ghost age is certain phases in the puppy's upbringing as the senses take a step back in development and the puppy can become much more afraid of himself for a while. This can usually be a real change as the puppy goes from one day being completely unafraid to the next day being afraid of his own shadow. These phases pass, but they are good to know!
The first ghost age usually appears when the puppy is 9-10 months (but it can start as early as 6 months or come as late as around the year). Normally, they then have a couple more such phases, one at about 1.5 years and one at 2.5 years. It varies between individuals how much and how strongly they are noticed. In the later stages, it is often noticed by the puppy trying to dominate or scare.
1. Continue to socialize. Do not break contact with other people, the dog needs to learn that strangers are not dangerous. However, reduce the stress so that your training does not have the opposite effect.
2. De-dramatize. Go yourself to the object the puppy is afraid of and handle it in a relaxed way, without making any big deal of the thing in front of the dog.
3. Died. Move the puppy's focus away from the upsetting moment and be calm and safe yourself.
4. Praise. Reward the dog when it is calm.
5. Play loudly. Train the puppy to handle noise by, for example, hiding sweets under or on top of swaying saucepan lids, or play next to a construction site. Of course, you should not go so close that the dog's hearing (or your own) can be damaged!
6. Rank carefully. In the ghost age, the dog begins to try to climb in rank. Then you as a herd leader should very carefully and without violence show that it is still you who decides by being clear and consistent.
Education
One thing we want to point out is to say "now it's enough" instead of "it's good now" as the latter actually tells the puppy / dog that we are happy with what it does.
We also often use whispers when we want the attention from the puppy / dog. Amstaffs have extremely good hearing (like most other dogs) and a whisper stands out more than a cry.
When the puppy gets things to chew on, we immediately start by "borrowing" the chewing bone / toy or whatever it is. Of course, we have already done that for a couple of weeks, but now it's time for you to continue.
We do this: we give a chewing bone, let the puppy have it for a while, go there, sit down quietly next to it and let the puppy see that we are there, grab one side of the chewing bone and say "loose", if the puppy does not let go the leg so we gently "tie" up the mouth (here you have to make sure that the puppy does NOT take it as a threat or punishment but was natural or dingy or whatever, but not hard on the voice !!!). When the jaw is open, we take the chewing bone and say loose (much praise only), we keep the chewing bone for a while and lock that we look at it and tell the puppy what a nice chewing bone it is. Then say goodbye and return it. You do not go on directly again, but now the puppy should enjoy his chewing bone. But if he / she has it for a long time, you can go back and repeat the procedure again the same day.
You then repeat this with EVERYTHING the puppy has in his mouth!
If the puppy tries to bite or chop when you have to take something it has in its mouth, then there is a trick that works to 99% if it is repeated a few times! You put your finger on the puppy's upper lip and press it over the teeth in the upper jaw. When the puppy then tries to bite you, he / she will bite in his / her own lip and it is neither nice nor popular, but after a couple of times the growling and attempts to bite are usually blown away. Then the puppy can show in a thousand other ways that it does not like you taking things from it, but it does not have to do that either. However, you must be able to do that. As long as the puppy shows his dissatisfaction in an acceptable way, we believe that he has the right to have an opinion. But it MUST NOT bite / chop or threaten.
If you want to use a clicker, whistle or the word here when summoned, start using it at meals and the puppy will come towards you voluntarily, both outside and inside. In the end, it will understand the sound / word and that it should go to you.
FOSTRAN
En sak som vi vill poängtera är att säga ”nu räcker det” istället för ”det är bra nu” då det senare faktiskt talar om för valpen/hunden att vi är nöjda med vad den gör.
Vi använder också ofta viskningar när vi vill ha uppmärksamheten från valpen/hunden. Hundar har extremt bra hörsel (och amstaffen är inget undantag) och en viskning väcker ibland mer uppmärksamhet än ett rop.
När valpen får saker att tugga på så börjar vi direkt med ”byteshandel”. Det har vi såklart redan gjort i ett par veckor, men nu är det dags för er att fortsätta.
Vi gör så här: vi ger ett tuggben eller leksak, låter valpen ha det en stund, går dit, sitter ner lugnt bredvid och låter valpen se att vi är där, tar tag i ena sidan på tuggbenet och säger ”byta” medan vi erbjuder en godis för att släppa tuggen. Vi behåller tuggbenet en stund och låssas att vi tittar på det och talar om för valpen vilket fint tuggben det är. Säger sen varsågod och lämnar tillbaka det. Man går nu inte på direkt igen utan nu ska valpen få njuta av sitt tuggben. Men har han/hon det länge så kan man gå tillbaka och göra om proceduren igen samma dag.
Man upprepar sedan detta med ALLT valpen har i munnen!
Sedan kan valpen visa på tusen andra sätt att den inte gillar att ni tar saker ifrån den, men det behöver den inte heller göra. Däremot måste ni kunna gör det. Så länge valpen visar sitt missnöje på ett godtagbart sätt så anser vi att den har rätt att ha en åsikt. Men den FÅR inte bita/hugga eller hota. Och skulle den göra det så få inte panik, utan bara lugnt träna vidare.
Om ni vill använda klicker, visselpipa eller ordet hit vid inkallning, så börja använda det vid måltiderna och när valpen frivilligt kommer mot er, både ute och inne. Till slut kommer den förstå på ljudet/ordet och att den ska gå till dig.
DJÄVULSTIMMARNA
Något annat som kan vara bra att veta om är att det finns något som kallas "djävustimmarna". De brukar infalla efter kvällsmaten innan valpen somnar inför natten. Här brukar många valpägare uppfatta att deras valp blir som förbytt eller besatt. Exempel kan den springa runt som en tok, biter i gardiner, på soffan osv mer eller mindre i farten. Galopperar runt i lägenheten, in och ut under sängen osv. Detta kvällsryck hos valpar brukar liknas vid övertrötta barn som spelar apa. Det är ingen ide att gå in i en konflikt i den situationen i alla fall. Försök agera lugnande. Ta upp valpen i famnen och låt den koppla av. Något som också brukar fungera är att förekomma detta genom att släcka ner något innan detta startar så att valpen lättare kommer till ro. Kanske kan valpen få ett gott litet ben att gnaga på och uppmuntra när den är lugn.
TIPS ON DOG SPORTS
Amstaffs are intensely aware of what is happening in their environment. They are curious, fast and agile. Because it is a terrier, it goes quickly from thought to action. It is strong for its size and has a lot of energy, energy that it needs to put on something useful. Good basic obedience and sufficient activation are important for life with an amstaff to be positive for both owner and dog. It feels best to get both mental stimulation and exercise. An understimulated AST is an AST that often takes matters into its own hands, and then it rarely happens as you intended. Amstaffen is suitable for most dog sports because it is a dog that is both athletic and loves to work.
Nose Work
In the dog sport nosework, the dog may use one of its main senses, the sense of smell. It is a general dog sport where all dogs can participate. In nosework, the dog and his handler must search for specific scents in different environments. The dog sport is inspired by the challenges that professional search dogs perform daily in, for example, the police and customs. But it is also an easy and fun way to activate your dog!
Most dogs find it exciting to use the nose. Nose work also gives the dog both physical and mental stimulation when it searches with you for the scents, which can be placed both inside and outside, at different heights, surfaces, vehicles and in boxes. As a dog sport, nosework has its roots in American dog stables, where it was used to activate dogs waiting for them to get new homes. From there, nosework has developed into a form of training and competition that many companion dogs enjoy. If you want to compete in nosework, the dog must first pass a scent test, which it must perform at the earliest at 10 months of age. After that, it is welcome to start competing after it turns one year old.
Rally obedience
In rally obedience, joy, cooperation, contact between dog and driver are in focus. It is a general dog sport where all dogs can participate. Rally obedience is a sport where the dog and driver complete a course with signs that illustrate various steps to be performed. The signs can say, for example, "360 degrees right", "slalom", "sit" or "send over obstacles". Rally in the name does not mean that it should go fast without the dog "driving" a course according to the "map reader", the driver, instructions.
But the most important thing is to have fun with your dog. When walking a track, the driver should not touch the dog, but it is free to encourage, shout, clap your hands and cheer in other ways. Rally obedience is an excellent activity for the average family dog. The dog does not have to perform all the steps perfectly to get a good result. No physically demanding elements are included and therefore the dog sport is also suitable for dogs and drivers of all ages. Rally obedience competitions are open to all dogs over 10 months old. The dogs can participate in four classes: beginner, advanced, advanced and master. Everyone starts in the beginner class and then climbs up the scale after they have achieved qualifying results.
Agility
In agility, the dog and driver must complete an obstacle course on time. It is a general dog sport where all dogs can participate. Seesaw, sack, tunnel, deck, balance beam - these are just some of the obstacles that the dog must overcome over and through in an agility competition. The course must be completed in the shortest possible time and without mistakes or refusals.
Agility is an easy and entertaining sport, often both the speed and the mood are high - and the dog is at least as delighted as the audience. It is also a show in advanced interaction, and requires a lot of training and a close and sensitive cooperation between dog and driver. Remember that agility is a demanding sport for your dog as well. The dog should be at least a year old and fully grown before you start training seriously.
DOG SHOW
At a dog show you can show your dog and get a statement on its merits. You can also win prizes and other awards. Dog shows give all dog enthusiasts the chance to see nice dogs and meet like-minded people in nice ways. Dog shows give us as breeders the opportunity to get a "receipt" on our breeding from an appearance and breed typical perspective. But to participate in mind, this is a nice way to spend the day with your dog and other dog enthusiasts, and an opportunity to learn more about your dog breed.
TIPS AND TRICKS
Amstaffs love play and food. Whichever
works best, however, is individual!
Encouraging voice can get an amstaff
from wandering in their own world
"Unaware that you exist" to become
overjoyed that you have finally arrived.
RACED PROBLEMS AND DISEASES
Amstaffen is basically a healthy breed. The most common problem is skin conditions such as itching, rashes, red paws and allergies. These disorders usually occur before the age of three. Therefore, we wait to breed our dogs before they are 3 years old. A large proportion of the X-rayed dogs have hip dysplasia (HD) and elbow dysplasia (ED). Therefore, the breed has a health program from 2014-01-01 for HD and ED with requirements that the parent animals have official HD and ED status before mating so that the puppies can be registered in SKK and have a pedigree. Cruciate ligament injuries also occur and are prevented with well-balanced and varied exercise on a good surface. Another racial disease is cerebellar ataxia (NCL-A, instability and coordination difficulties, so-called amstaff ataxia) which is an incurable neurological disease. We have therefore chosen that at least one of the parent animals should have a known status for ataxia to see if they carry the gene. Then we use the result when we select a partner as the disease is autosomal recessive. Which means that both parents must carry the predisposition, and carry them on for the puppy to fall ill.
MENTALITET
Amstaffen är en blandning av dogg och terrier. Detta avspeglar sig i deras temprament som är en charmfull
blandning av busighet, hetsighet, nyfikenhet och målmedveten med mycket bra självförtroende. Detta gör
dem till mentalt stabila, trygga och vänliga individer. Dock får man inte glömma deras ursprung. De är
som en terrier oerhört snabba mellan tanke och handling. Den är alltid redo och alltid med oavsett vad som
väntar, den är explosiv, snabb och kan hoppa mycket högt. Rasstandarden beskriver dem som positiva, läraktiga, nyfikna, modiga och vänliga individer med ett jämnt och stabilt temperament. Skygga, rädda och socialt oförmögna amstaffar är mycket otypiska och absolut inte önskvärda i avel.
BEHAVIORAL AND PERSONALITY DESCRIPTION DOG (BPH)
BPH is designed to fit all dogs. For all dogs, they must be ID-marked, vaccinated and have reached 1 year of age, but there is no upper age limit. The owner or driver must be a member of a county club or a special club / race club. It helps you as a dog owner to get to know your dog a little better and is valuable in the breeding work for us as breeders when we evaluate our breeding work or choose breeding animals for the next generation. The description takes about 45 minutes and contains eight different steps. The purpose is to get an idea of how the dog reacts to and handles different situations. These include meeting strangers, playing, working to access food and encountering surprises.
MENTAL DESCRIPTION DOG (MH)
Mental description dog (MH) describes the behaviors that, through research, have been shown to be highly hereditary. During an MH, the dog and owner go through a course with different elements where these behaviors are documented. All dog owners with dogs registered in SKK have the opportunity to report their dog to MH and they give the dog owner a good idea of who the dog is at the other end of the leash. MH has also aroused great interest outside Sweden. MH is not a test where the dog is approved or failed, but is a description that is recorded. The dog must be 1 year old, registered in SKK, ID-marked, fully healthy and vaccinated according to rules to participate.
MENTAL DESCRIPTION PUPPY (MV)
The purpose of describing puppies is to eventually get a basis, which can be evaluated and be a complement to the mental description dog (MH). Mental description puppy is also intended to be an aid to the breeder in choosing suitable puppy buyers. MV is done when they are 7-9 weeks old and gives a description of the puppy's behavior in specific situations. The description is performed in an isolated space where the puppy has not been before or in an enclosure outdoors.
The description contains 11 elements where the puppy descriptor describes the puppy's behaviors; interest / curiosity, greeting, contact, playfulness, form of arrest, ability to act and anxiety.
The description ends with the puppy descriptor estimating how active and safe the puppy has been during the steps. The breeder estimates how active the puppy is in everyday life and in relation to other puppies in the litter.
The puppy descriptor must be a person that the puppies have not met before.